Debra Healy poursuit sa promenade Place Vendôme et Rue de la Paix en nous proposant une analyse de Van Cleef & Arpels. Cette marque prestigieuse - qui s'est construite avec une forte tradition d'innovation - se dote d'un directeur artistique, puise dans son héritage, et réinvente ses classiques. Une superbe réussite...
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- In 1925 Van Cleef & Arpels won the Grand Prix at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs for the bracelet below . A distinguishing aspect of of all Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is the focus on gem stones and flawless gem cutting.
Image from the Jeweled Garden by Suzanne Tennenbaum and Janet Zapata Flexible bracelet, diamonds, buff cut rubies, and emeralds. - 1935: They pioneered and patented the Serti invisble or mystery setting.
- Through out the 1930's they developed many innovative jewels like this necklace which can be worn with either side facing forward.
- 1930's-1960's, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced a prescious metal ornmental evening clutch for women. it was complete with compartments and accessories, it was called La Minaudière, which was a trademark and a patent.
- 1938: Another patent, the Passe Partout was an interchangeable jewelry concept. The gold gas-pipe (tobogas) chain with its clip-on ornaments one could wear it as a belt, a necklace, a bracelet, hat or hair ornaments, or dress clips. The flowers were set with multi-colored sapphires and rubies.
- Van Cleef & Arpels opened a New York branch twice, in 1929, and again permanently in 1939.
- Through out the 1940's they developed a narrative-style with natural themed gem-set flowers, birds, ballerinas, and magical faeries.
- During the 1950's Claude Arpels (1911-1990) traveled to India to acquire important stones. After Indian Independence Maharajas were eager to exchange gems for currency. He brought back dazzling gems, and antique Indian jewelry which influenced the development of a lavish Indian style. These evocative jewels were exotic, bold, and colorful.
- In 1954 Van Cleef & Arpels was the first major jeweler to create a boutique next door to sell a line of less exclusive jewels. The boutiques line continues to this day.
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Image: WWD The windows The current windows are an ultra-modern chinoiserie, with shocking pink manga-colors. They communicate a progressive global aesthetic that is very trendy, feminine, and a little playful.
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The new jewels are deeply enriched by heritage of this house. Their fine jewelry competence is evident in the exquisite stones and flawless workmanship.
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Emerald and diamond beads, with diamond set elements, in this multi-strand oriental style necklace, which was inspired by the Le Bal Oriental.
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Diamond necklace with round, calibré-cut diamonds, and a diamond briolette drop.
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An elegant diamond necklace which evokes a lace collar, with tassels. This style necklace taps deeply into the the heritage. The opulence of this new collection is heralding a new age of elegance. "With regard to jewelry, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels were top performers during the year", said Richard Lepeu, deputy ceo of Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, “a very broad base of merchandise and price points were driving sales in the jewelry division overall". He added, however, that sales of the ultrahigh-end items — those costing more than $1 million — were “less buoyant.” WWD May 19, 2011 This comment was made before the debut of the new collection, which, I imagine, will prove that the magic of Van Cleef & Arpels is ever present.